Post by FiReStOrM on Oct 7, 2004 19:35:50 GMT 10
-= Oil Catch Can =-
Background:
Oil catch can (in relation to PCV system). When the PCV system operates, it releases the air back into the intake system to be burnt again. This air is contaminated with oil vapours. The oil vapours do not burn effectively in the combustion process and lower the RON of the fuel you are using therefore robbing power and contributing to detonation. The aim of fitting an oil catch can is to filter out as much of the oil vapour as possible from the air to ensure maximum combustion.
Tools Required:
-Pliers (needle nosed)
-Assorted Spanners
-Drill + Assorted Bits
Optional Tools:
-Rats Tail File
Materials Required:
-1 x Metal Fuel Can (available at outdoors & camping stores)
-2 x Hose Fittings
-1 x Tube Gasket Goo
-Rubber Hose (length will be determined by mounting positon, hose routing etc...)
Optional Materials:
-Mounting Brackets
-Hose Clamps
-Rubber 'O' Rings
-Spray Paint
Required Preparations: (None)
Step 1 (Removal): Remove the old PCV hose from the PCV valve and intake. Use the pliers to undo the hose clamps from both ends of the hose. Remove the PCV valve with the appropriate spanner. Thouroughly clean the valve in soapy water (dishwashing detergent works fine) or de-greasing solution. Once completed, shake the valve to make sure it is in working order. You will hear a rattle from inside, if not, try cleaning again and if still no positive result replace the valve. (You may want to check for backward pressure leaks. Blow into the end of the valve, air should flow. Blow in the opposite end, the air should not flow in this direction). Allow to dry.
Step 2 (Creation of Catch Can): Take the fuel can and drill holes which are equal or less the diameter of the hose fittings thread. Check how the fittings screw in; they should seat firmly. (if you do not have required drill bit sizes or the holes are too small, use the file to expand the holes). If you are painting the can, now would be the ideal time to do so. Allow sufficient drying time. Once paint has dried; if you have chosen to use the rubber washers (highly recommended) place them onto the fittings along with a generous ammount of the gasket goo. Screw the fittings into the can and wipe off all excess goo. Tighten the fittings with spanner (beware; do not overtighten). Allow sufficient time for gasket sealer to harden. Once dried; if you have an air compressor spray out the can to remove all small metal shavings, vaccuuming may be possible.
Step 3 (Fitting the can): Replace the PCV valve. Seat the can in engine bay or fasten with brackets if chosen to do so. Fit all hoses to the can, PCV valve and intake using the old clamps where they used to be (Valve and intake). If the hose on the can is too loose you should use hose clamps to fasten tightly.
Step 4 (Final Checks): Start the engine. Check for any pressure leaks around PCV system. Any major leaks will probably result in a quite high idle speed.
Notes:
When drilling the holes in the can for the fittings, the position may determine the effectiveness of the oil filtering process. If the two fittings are facing each other directly, it will be less effective as most of the air will pass straight through. Try position them indirectly and at different heights if possible. This will create a swirling motion as the can is round; Oil from the air will stick to the walls of the can and drip to the bottom, which is the desired function.
If you wish, you may drill an extra hole in the bottom of the can and insert some kind of plug or screw. This will make it much easier when it comes time to drain the can.
When first installed, filling the bottom of the can with fresh engine oil may help oil separation from air as the oil bonds to itself. (only fill with enough oil to justt cover the bottom of the can.
A metal can must be used. Plastic is no substitute; it must be heat proof and must be able to hold pressure. Plastic (for example a coke bottle) would justt suck itself in.
Background:
Oil catch can (in relation to PCV system). When the PCV system operates, it releases the air back into the intake system to be burnt again. This air is contaminated with oil vapours. The oil vapours do not burn effectively in the combustion process and lower the RON of the fuel you are using therefore robbing power and contributing to detonation. The aim of fitting an oil catch can is to filter out as much of the oil vapour as possible from the air to ensure maximum combustion.
Tools Required:
-Pliers (needle nosed)
-Assorted Spanners
-Drill + Assorted Bits
Optional Tools:
-Rats Tail File
Materials Required:
-1 x Metal Fuel Can (available at outdoors & camping stores)
-2 x Hose Fittings
-1 x Tube Gasket Goo
-Rubber Hose (length will be determined by mounting positon, hose routing etc...)
Optional Materials:
-Mounting Brackets
-Hose Clamps
-Rubber 'O' Rings
-Spray Paint
Required Preparations: (None)
Step 1 (Removal): Remove the old PCV hose from the PCV valve and intake. Use the pliers to undo the hose clamps from both ends of the hose. Remove the PCV valve with the appropriate spanner. Thouroughly clean the valve in soapy water (dishwashing detergent works fine) or de-greasing solution. Once completed, shake the valve to make sure it is in working order. You will hear a rattle from inside, if not, try cleaning again and if still no positive result replace the valve. (You may want to check for backward pressure leaks. Blow into the end of the valve, air should flow. Blow in the opposite end, the air should not flow in this direction). Allow to dry.
Step 2 (Creation of Catch Can): Take the fuel can and drill holes which are equal or less the diameter of the hose fittings thread. Check how the fittings screw in; they should seat firmly. (if you do not have required drill bit sizes or the holes are too small, use the file to expand the holes). If you are painting the can, now would be the ideal time to do so. Allow sufficient drying time. Once paint has dried; if you have chosen to use the rubber washers (highly recommended) place them onto the fittings along with a generous ammount of the gasket goo. Screw the fittings into the can and wipe off all excess goo. Tighten the fittings with spanner (beware; do not overtighten). Allow sufficient time for gasket sealer to harden. Once dried; if you have an air compressor spray out the can to remove all small metal shavings, vaccuuming may be possible.
Step 3 (Fitting the can): Replace the PCV valve. Seat the can in engine bay or fasten with brackets if chosen to do so. Fit all hoses to the can, PCV valve and intake using the old clamps where they used to be (Valve and intake). If the hose on the can is too loose you should use hose clamps to fasten tightly.
Step 4 (Final Checks): Start the engine. Check for any pressure leaks around PCV system. Any major leaks will probably result in a quite high idle speed.
Notes:
When drilling the holes in the can for the fittings, the position may determine the effectiveness of the oil filtering process. If the two fittings are facing each other directly, it will be less effective as most of the air will pass straight through. Try position them indirectly and at different heights if possible. This will create a swirling motion as the can is round; Oil from the air will stick to the walls of the can and drip to the bottom, which is the desired function.
If you wish, you may drill an extra hole in the bottom of the can and insert some kind of plug or screw. This will make it much easier when it comes time to drain the can.
When first installed, filling the bottom of the can with fresh engine oil may help oil separation from air as the oil bonds to itself. (only fill with enough oil to justt cover the bottom of the can.
A metal can must be used. Plastic is no substitute; it must be heat proof and must be able to hold pressure. Plastic (for example a coke bottle) would justt suck itself in.